Exploring Ijen Mountain: A Review and Guide
During my Year 11 winter vacation, I finally embarked on a trip I had always dreamed about—Indonesia, specifically to visit the majestic Ijen volcano. I first learned about the wonders of volcanoes from the documentary Fire of Love, and I immediately fell in love with their raw, untamed beauty. The allure of blue fire, the acid lake, and the hardworking miners all made Ijen a place I couldn’t miss in my lifetime. As a hiking and nature enthusiast, I meticulously planned my journey. My mind buzzed with anticipation until I finally set foot on the island. Now, I’m excited to share my unforgettable experience exploring one of the two volcanoes in the world known for their surreal, blue flames. Whether you're considering a visit to Ijen or simply interested in hearing about this magical place, I hope this blog inspires you.
Arriving in East Java, Indonesia, in the afternoon, I was too excited to sleep in the hotel. I knew the spectacle of the blue fire only happened at around 4 a.m., so we needed to reach the trailhead by 1 a.m. to catch it. Our tour guide recommended we get enough rest, warning us that the hike would be exhausting. As the solemn chanting from a nearby mosque filled the air, my excitement finally began to settle, and I drifted off into sleep, still imagining the beauty of Ijen.
As planned, we reached the base of Ijen at 1 a.m., feeling refreshed and ready. Our kind tour guide, Anwar, led us into the night, with the dark sky and faint outlines of shrubs creating a mysterious vibe. Unlike us, many tourists opted for the local rickshaw service, humorously dubbed "the Lamborghini," to avoid the rugged 10-kilometer mountain path. The air buzzed with a mix of lively chatter from the guides, rickshaw pullers shouting for space, and the friendly banter of locals. The contrast between the vibrant activity and the quiet night was striking. Despite the physically demanding journey, no one seemed defeated, especially the rickshaw pullers, who doubled down on their work, laughing and encouraging each other as they raced up the mountain. Cigarettes and camaraderie fueled their resilience.
Finally, when we reached the summit, the trees and plants fell away, revealing the pristine, starlit sky—something I’d never seen before in such unpolluted clarity. Everyone stopped to take pictures, mesmerized by the romantic, twinkling stars. But we couldn’t linger too long; we were here for the blue fire, and time was running out. While the stars above were breathtaking, I was more eager to witness the otherworldly phenomena on earth.
Unlike other volcanoes, Ijen doesn’t have the typical molten lava. Instead, sulfur acts as its lava, producing an eerie blue glow when ignited—a phenomenon known as "blue lava." The only real danger comes from the volcanic plumes, not the lava itself, making Ijen somewhat tame compared to the fiery explosions of other volcanoes. The unique geological structure of Ijen also creates the world’s largest acidic lake. Both the blue lava and the acid lake reside in the crater, which was the destination of our hike.
The last stretch to the crater was a steep, slippery downhill, a treacherous path where accidents are common. Thanks to Anwar’s guidance, we made it safely down to the crater. There, a mass of people had already gathered, drawn by the mesmerizing blue fire. I had to push through the crowd to get a closer view, but once I saw the surreal flames dancing in the dark, it was worth every effort. The blue fire pulsed with life, and in that moment, I felt completely connected to the raw energy of nature.
As dawn broke, the blue fire gradually lost its intensity, giving way to the breathtaking panorama of the Ijen crater. The sulfuric smoke rising above the acid lake created an ethereal scene, with the turquoise waters reflecting the morning light. The sulfur fumes created a halo effect, giving the lake an almost mystical quality. The mountains, illuminated by the rising sun, dwarfed everything in their presence, making me feel insignificant against the vastness of nature. Another remarkable sight at dawn was the sulfur miners. As early as 5 a.m., these miners, shirtless and hardened by years of labor, began their work. They chipped away at the solidified sulfur with steel rods, loading the heavy material into baskets to carry down the mountain. Even though I had read about their difficult working conditions, seeing it firsthand left a deep impression.
Curious about the miners’ work, I asked one of them if I could try digging the sulfur. He handed me a steel rod, and I quickly realized how tough the sulfur was, despite its fragile appearance. Even with all my effort, I barely chipped off a small piece. With the sulfuric fumes burning my throat, even with a mask, I couldn’t imagine enduring such conditions daily. And yet, these miners do it with pride, providing for their families. Talking to them, I realized it would be a mistake to pity them. They’re proud of their work, and while tourists may see them as part of the scenery, they view themselves as heroes, extracting sulfur—the “blood of the Earth.”
After finishing our exploration of the crater, it was time to head back. The downhill hike was easier, and with the sun shining, we noticed the vibrant greenery that we hadn’t seen in the dark. The lushness of the landscape was refreshing, a stark contrast to the volcanic environment we had just left behind. As we descended, I reflected on the people of Ijen. Although life here is hard, I was struck by the bond they share with their land and each other. Far from feeling trapped by their work, they are deeply connected to their environment, supported by strong friendships and a sense of purpose. As I took a farewell photo with Anwar, his bright, sun-like smile was etched into my memory forever. The people of Ijen, much like the volcano itself, are raw, unsophisticated, and deeply resilient.